David Cronenberg for Saint Laurent
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David Cronenberg is deeply thrilled to front Saint Laurent’s new campaign
David Cronenberg News ~ Jim Jarmusch grips a safety pin and scribbles some dark lettering onto the surface of a desk, while Pedro Almodóvar stares into the lens and strikes one of those power poses so beloved of self-help gurus.
In creative disdain, Abel Ferrara claws at his face. Anthony Vaccarello has turned the camera on the film industry’s most chin-strokey directors for his SS23 campaign at Saint Laurent, having presumably observed the uproar that surrounded Prada’s AW22 show (which transported cult, septuagenarian actors like Jeff Goldblum and Kyle MacLachlan onto its intergalactic runway).
The entire thing is a brooding, monochromatic portrait of a bicoastal, silver-haired artist who likes to wear thick-rimmed glasses – like David Cronenburg. It was shot by David Sims. Sharp shoulders, deep-necked Le Smokings, and swollen faux-fur jackets all contribute to the louche, 80s vibe that gathered on the sandbanks of Marrakech when the brand unveiled its SS23 collection in July. Though it would have been easy to approach the collection with a tourist’s eye – all djellabas, Moroccan tiling, and worn linens – Vaccarello traveled through his adolescence spent as an indie kid on Antwerp’s fashion scene (probably around the time he became acquainted with the work of Jarmusch, Almodóvar, Ferrara, and Cronenburg).
That show, too, had an appropriately cinematic tone, culminating beneath Es Devlin’s LED installation, inspired by Paul Bowles’ 1949 novel The Sheltering Sky, rising up from a circular lagoon to illuminate the desert like the Eye of Sauron. Though there are clear links between Saint Laurent’s current menswear and womenswear operations (a chic, rich coupledom), the SS23 campaigns draw a line in the sand: the women’s imprint has quietly returned to Saint Laurent’s 1961 logo, whereas the menswear imagery remains indebted to Hedi Slimane’s cool froideur.
We can’t wait for this partnership to produce exciting results!
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